Local Weather Conditions
Weather conditions change frequently and rapidly across the desert Southwest. This can drastically impact the your safety when climbing, hiking and canyoneering in our beautiful area. Failure to properly evaluate weather conditions can and has lead to fatal accidents. Also, improperly evaluating local conditions, or failing to take into account recent weather events can cause damage to fragile sandstone climbing features that once broken can never be replaced.
The staff at The Desert Rat try to provide guidance on local weather conditions but we are obviously limited by the information available to us. It is simply impossible for us to have up to date information on every canyon, crag and hike in our area. Any advice we give should be taken with a healthy grain of salt, and it is UP TO YOU to evaluate on-the-ground conditions at areas when you arrive and make responsible choices.
What follows are some general guidelines for making good decisions while adventuring in our area. This list is not exhaustive, and you should do additional research to help guide your decision making. Remember, your safety is your responsibility!
When is it too wet to climb?
Climbing on wet sandstone is dangerous. Sandstone is dramatically weakened by the presence of moisture in the rock. This makes bolts (and other types of anchors) less reliable and hand and footholds much more likely to break. This not only puts your safety at risk, but can also permanently damage fragile and irreplaceable rock. Here are some guidelines on how to evaluate whether or not it is safe to climb on sandstone that you suspect might be wet.
Is it actively raining?
If it is, don't climb.
Is the rock visibly wet?
Wet sandstone often appears darker than usual. If you suspect the rock might be wet, do the following:
Look for "sweating" or seeping water, especially in grooves or cracks, which indicates subsurface moisture.
Touch the holds. Wet rock can feel cold and "claggy," a sticky, damp feeling that reduces friction.
Gently tap a potential hold. Waterlogged sandstone can have a lower, duller sound compared to dry rock.
If any of these signs of damp rock are present, don't climb.
Has it rained in the past 48 hours?
If it has, don't climb.
Are their visible puddles of water or mud on the trail or nearby where you want to climb?
If there are, chances are it rained fairly recently. Our arid desert soil is like a sponge and water doesn't stick around for long. If you see mud or standing water in the vicinity of where you want to climb, don't.
Check the ground.
Dig a few inches into the soil at the base of the climb. If it's still damp, the rock is likely too wet. Make sure to do this at multiple locations. North facing aspects and other shaded rock dries much more slowly than rock faces that receive full sun for most of the day.
Again, remember that your safety is your responsibility. It is up to you to evaluate if you can safely climb and if you can do so without permanently damaging fragile holds that cannot be replaced.
Is it safe to go canyoneering and/or hiking?
Evaluating weather conditions for hiking and canyoneering safely is an essential requirement in the desert Southwest. Failure to do so can result in death. What follows are basic guidelines only. Do more research to make sure you are safe when you go out.
Slot Canyons
Slot canyons are formed by catastrophic flash floods using rock and other debris to gouge natural drainages into narrow canyons in solid rock. Naturally, you don't want to be caught in a canyon when a flash flood happens. Before going canyoneering, always do the following:
Check the weather
Not just for the immediate area for the canyon you plan on exploring. Check the weather for upland areas that drain into the canyon. Rain miles upstream can be funneled into a canyon you're in even if you have perfectly blue skies above you. If there is a chance of rain, seriously consider whether or not you want to take the risk of being caught in a slot canyon.
Be extra careful during monsoon season
The desert Southwest is notorious for its unexpected and violent storms during monsoon season. That season typically runs from July - September. But, sometimes it comes earlier and lasts longer. During monsoon season weather forecasts are especially unreliable. Thunderstorms tend to accumulate in the afternoons and can dump a terrifying amount of water in a very short period of time. Take this into account when planning any trip into a slot canyon during this season.
Be prepared for cold water
Slot canyons hold water. They are also deep, dark holes in the ground. This means the water in them is cold. Even in the middle of hot summers. It is impossible to know how much water is in any given canyon from one day to the next. They could be bone dry, or you could encounter frigid pools you have to swim through. Do as much research as you can on the particular canyon you plan to explore. If in doubt, take adequate equipment for dealing with cold water.
Realize that slot canyons change
Slot canyons are, by their very nature, impermanent. Every flash flood that tares its way through a canyon changes it in some way. Rock falls, which occur frequently, change canyons as well. It is impossible for guidebooks or online descriptions to stay up to date with how canyons change. Rappels and downclimbs may be longer than expected. New rappels and downclimbs may have been created by recent floods or rock falls.
Rappel anchors in canyons change too. Natural and artificial anchors can be damaged or destroyed by flash floods, rock fall, or other users. Go into canyons prepared to deal with changes, unexpected conditions and missing or damaged anchors.
Also, keep in mind that canyons change when evaluating the "necessity" of anchors you find in a canyon. Depending on flow rates, flash floods either remove or deposit sediment in canyons. It is entirely possible for a recent flood to deposit massive amounts of sediment at unexpected places in a canyon. This can make some anchors seem arbitrary or pointless. Please do not remove them. A subsequent flash flood can remove sediment, resulting in a significant drop that necessitates an anchor. Removing anchors in a canyon you don't know the history of could seriously endanger future parties that descend the canyon after you and find different conditions.
Heat
It is seriously hot in Southern Utah. At times it is deathly hot. Failure to take heat into account on your adventures can and will result in death. Always, always, always make sure to take more than enough water with you. Realize that summer starts early in the year here and lasts longer than most other places in the world. Start your hikes early in the morning and be done before the heat of the day. If you find yourself stuck in the heat, quickly find shade, drink water and call 911. Do more research on how to deal with heat in the Desert and remember that your safety is your responsibility!